It is a Noir, Noir Better Thing I Do

"The First Duty of wine is to be red. The second is to be a Burgundy."

-- Harry Waugh, of whom more here, although the quotation may actually be from Alec Waugh, who also knew a thing or two about wine and who, unlike Harry, was one of those Waughs. But, be that as it may . . .

The red wines of Burgundy are made always and exclusively with the Pinot Noir grape. White Burgundy is always Chardonnay, and there is a decent argument to be made that Burgundy is the only place on Earth in which that unaccountably popular grape produces wine that is worth the time of day. The argument is persuasive to me, at least, but I am one who is bull-headedly convinced that Chardonnay is a fundamentally Boring Grape. Your results may vary. Back, now, to my actual point.

While Pinot Noir also achieves its zenith, in both quality and price (quel dommage), in the best of the Burgundian vineyards, it is the very opposite of a Boring Grape. It is, to my taste, the most Interesting Grape there is, and the world outside of France has managed in the last decade or two to figure out where to grow it and what to do with it in order to produce wines that, while they will never be Burgundy, either do not embarass themselves by aspiring to Burgundiosity or else display tempting characters all their own. North America has been particularly well served, with portions of California (northern Santa Barbara County, a few choice spots around Paso Robles, Mendocino County's Anderson Valley) and Oregon producing stellar examples. In the southern hemisphere, the Australians (particularly the devilish Tasmanians) and New Zealandish Kiwis are also doing right by the grape.

All of which is simply an elaborate excuse for saying that there will be no further posting here until Monday, because we're off on a whirlwind trip to Portland, Oregon, and points north and southwest, to call on farflung family and friends and, oh yes, to spend Sunday afternoon sampling a plethora, a veritable plethora, of Pinot Noir wines from around the globe (including, it seems, wine from such unexpected sources as the Golan Heights). One suspects that salmon will also be involved at some point, and possibly hazelnuts. Yum.

Have yourselves a merry little weekend.

Comments

[david giacalone]

Here's hoping that you will drink like a Fool, but drive like an insurance defense lawyer.

Have a great time with She Who Must Be Obeyed.

[Rick Coencas]

Say hi pour moi to the northern bretheren!!!